There’s no question that one of the definitions of paradise is to be seated in an oceanfront, world-class restaurant at gloaming, the sun sinking into the horizon as candles flicker at neighboring tables and Pacific Ocean breezes waft through the open doors into a bejeweled dining room adorned with mother-of-pearl walls and plush banquettes. If this isn’t the charmed life, then what is?
Apart from its sublime oceanfront setting, Azure, the Royal Hawaiian’s signature restaurant, offers a classic contemporary interior design that honors the Royal’s storied history of elegance and high standards.
As we gazed toward Diamond Head while sipping from a glass of William Fevre Chardonnay (well chosen by Azure’s personable and charming sommelier, Michael Swerdloff), the setting sun was replaced by the city lights of Waikiki. What other response was there but to toast to happiness?
Executive Chef Jon Matsubara, who earned his stripes at restaurants such as Jean Georges, Tabla, and Bouley in New York, has created a menu befitting a locale beholden to the gifts of the sea. Every morning at 5:30, chefs from Azure frequent the opening of the Honolulu fish auction to handpick the best of the catch.
An ocean salad of Kona lobster, Big Island abalone, scallop, Dungeness crab, octopus, and tobiko caviar was nothing less than a cornucopia of the Pacific’s best gifts. Azure sashimi was a mouth-watering pillow of oceanic flavor: Hawaiian yellowtail ahi and Kona amberjack, accompanied by watermelon radish salad, drizzled in ginger vinaigrette.
Dining by the ocean, eating from the ocean – what could be more elemental?
An intermezzo of lemon basil granita with strawberry pop rocks was the equivalent of a burst of fireworks over Diamond Head. For dessert, a deconstructed Hawaiian Pine”Apple” Crumble, served with crème fraiche gelato, was nothing less than the best of Tropical America – and yes, there is such a thing: it’s called Hawaii.
At meal’s end, a French press of freshly brewed Kona coffee with peaberry was a reminder of how coffee can be as smooth and elegant as a post-prandial liqueur.
In truth, it was tempting to remain seated at the candlelit table alongside the Pacific long after the restaurant had closed. For whenever again would the combination of setting, food, service, and atmosphere conspire in such a perfect form?
Azure is nothing less than flying First Class to heaven.
