Upon first consideration, the cuisines of Brazil and France might not seem the most harmonic combination—and yet, in South Beach, at the Blue Door at the Delano, they marry beautifully: the tropical sensuality of South America balanced by the refinement of Europe.
Inside, the Philippe Starck-designed sleek and cool white room induces a kind of Parisian languor—while dining al fresco on The Terrace, the Delano’s lawn and pool sweeping out toward the ocean, combines the sultriness of Rio with the chic of St. Tropez.
As for the food, Jeffrey Chodorow and Claude Troisgros mix some of the best elements of two influential cuisines. For a starter, there’s a Big Ravioli with taro root mousseline, white truffle oil and mushroom foam—and a fragrance so intense as to be hypnotic. Ask—beg—for more bread: you wouldn’t want to leave behind even a scent in that bowl. There’s also a fine vegetarian pasta loaded with slow-baked cherry tomatoes, baby eggplant, hearts of palm, haricots verts, chanterelles, and artichokes served with crispy tofu—and black truffles. Dessert can be equally decadent: a confection called Chocopistachio proves to be a malted chocolate cake with caramelized pistachio ice cream, served with a sugar cookie spoon.
And yet, arguably, it’s the Crêpe Passion, a passion fruit pancake soufflé—a combination of citrus and cream, tart and sweet—which best reflects why Brazilians and French should spend more time together. Subtle and assertive at the same time, it’s a bit like seeing Gisele Bundchen in a Dior dress: the kind of gastronomic treat that steals the show and seals the deal. As they say at the Blue Door, vive les Cariocas!
NOTE: The Blue Door at the Delano is now Bianca
