As the adage goes, “When in Roma…” – which is to say that there’s always something to be learned from Italians. For years, Tuscans have been enjoying Morellino and Montecucco wines, appellations that are relatively new to the American market.
Located in the Maremma region in southwestern Tuscany, Montecucco flanks the better known Brunello and Montalcino regions, as well as Morellino – and yet, until recently, the Montecucco region has remained undiscovered by many oenophiles.
Granted DOC status in 1998, Montecucco earned its DOCG designation in 2011, which has resulted in renewed attention by wine connoisseurs partial to Sangiovese-based wines from Tuscany. Montecucco, like Morellino, has come into its own in recent years.
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The Morellino di Scansano region produces wine known locally as Morellino, so named for the bay horses called “morelli” that pulled the carriages and coaches of 18th-century public officials moving to Scansano for the summer to escape the infestation of malaria.
A testament to the vibrant color of the horses as well as their strength, Morellino is an apt term for the Sangiovese wines of the region, which received DOCG status in 2007 and now produces 10 million bottles annually. Consequently, Morellino wines have garnered a wider audience alongside accolades for the wines’ pleasing softness and velvety tannins, a consequence of Morellino’s ideal environmental conditions.
The Morellino DOCG Production Code says that Morellino di Scansano DOCG must be at least 85% Sangiovese with grapes grown within the DOCG zone and a natural minimum of 12% volume. Morellino wines must also exhibit a ruby red color, tending toward garnet, with a brilliant clarity.
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A recent New York dinner was part of the first joint tour of the United States by the Consorzio Tutela Vino Morellino di Scansano DOCG and Consorzio Tutela Vini Montecucco. The three-course meal at Aroma Kitchen & Winebar featured twelve selections from Morellino and Montecucco that showcased the complementary qualities of the Sangiovese-based wines when paired with autumnal cuisine.
An antipasto course of cuttlefish stew and Castelvetrano olives, accompanied by house-marinated olives, bread, and herbaceous oil paired nicely with Ribusieri’s Chiaranotte Montecucco Vermentino DOC 2014 with its soft, fresh floral notes.
A primo piatto of hand-pulled pasta and mushroom ragu was complemented by a ruby-red Campinuovi Montecucco Sangiovese DOCG 2013 redolent of rose and cherries and violet, with hints of tobacco. Perfect for pasta, the wine offered a pleasing herbal spiciness alongside well-balanced tannins and a full-on fruity finish.
Il Boschetto winemaker Katarina Lange ©MRNY
For many Montecucco producers, small is better. As Il Boschetto’s winemaker Katarina Lange contends,“Because of our size, it is, thankfully, not expected of us to churn out homogeneous products every year. Like our region, Montecucco, we are a very new producer without much recognition [and our goal] is to produce good quality, enjoyable wines without much intervention. Our wines are shaped by their terroir and the season, expressing their individuality and personal flair.” Il Boschetto Botte N°11 Montecucco Rosso Riserva DOC 2011 displayed a fresh bouquet with light vegetal notes – and a lively palate that will drink well with autumn stews and red sauces.
“We let the season speak for itself and let each character be given a chance to flourish without conformity,” says Lange, who readily admits that while Il Boschetto Botte N°11 Montecucco Rosso Riserva DOC 2011 is ready to drink now, for those who wait another year or so, the rewards will be a wine of even more luxurious depth.
At the secondo, the Conte Ferdinando Guicciardini Massi di Mandorlaia Morellino de Scansano I Massi DOCG 2013 exhibited an elegant jammy prune richness with a balsamic finish, making it a perfect segue into dessert: an almond and olive oil cake with rhubarb and ricotta that was nothing short of ambrosial.
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From its inception as an agricultural capital during the Etruscan period, Scansano developed its viticulture practices and a reputation for dry, ruby red wine that paired well with game. Archeologists have found earthenware jars containing vitis vinifera seeds, which date back to the 5th century BC.
Created in 1992, the Consorzio Tutela Vino Morellino di Scansano represents 66% of all Morellino de Scansano and serves as a guarantor of quality alongside its mission to protect and educate both producers and consumers. According to Giacomo Pondini, Director of the Consortium, the producers of Morellino and Montecucco, with the assistance of the consortium, are helping Americans to rediscover Tuscany’s hidden gem.
Reasonably priced and ready to drink young, Montecucco and Morellino are the wines that most Tuscans drink – and, according to Pondini, experts believe that the 2015 harvest might well be the best vintage of the past 20 years.
